Carolyn Tillie's Ultimate California Wine Blog

Selby - 186

Downtown Healdsburg is a lovely place to visit; full of quaint shops, delightful art galleries, enticing restaurants, and a handful of tasting rooms. However, if you limit your jaunting to only the square, you will undoubtedly miss one of the best selections of wines -- not only in the neighborhood -- but in California. Selby Winery has their tasting room a few blocks off the main shopping drag and is definitely worth looking for; almost hidden by overgrown trees just a few doors down from the fire station.

I was there on a week day and the tasting room was bustling! Full to the brim, Amanda was aptly handling the large crowd. I was patient and waited for it to quiet down. I was fortunate to taste through the entire line-up of Selby wines for a related article I've been working on, as well as having the opportunity of meeting Susie Selby in person.

She is diminutive in stature and has a personal warmth that immediately exudes charm and grace. She initially came to Northern California to help her father out in a small custom-crush winery (those are the kind where serious amateurs make wine for fun). Susie got so enamored with her father's obsession, that it encouraged her to get a job in a local tasting room. When the bug really hit her, she began serious studies while working as a cellar rat, eventually becoming an assistant winemaker. Now with her her own label, she is entirely self-taught, learning the entire wine industry from the ground up, literally.

Since her first vintage in 1993, she has built a reputation that includes having her wine served at the White House on multiple occasions. Robert Redford is so impressed with her winemaking style that she has been contracted to produce the Chardonnay for Redford's Sundance resort. She has a tasting room (decorated with fabulous art by Clay Vajgrt), and a thriving winery producing 15,000 cases. What impressed me more than anything is the overall quality and integrity of the wine and the fact that Susie is not afraid to take chances as is depicted in experiments along the likes of a Malbec and a Syrah rosé, wines that are just plain fun to drink.

2004 Sauvignon Blanc - Crisp, clear kiwi and pineapple tones without being harsh or strident. $13.00

2004 Rosé of Syrah - The color of a sparkling, almandine garnet. An enchanting rosé because of its varietal integrity, Laura makes this wine solely because she likes to drink it (god bless her!). Explosive cranberry and pomegranate flavors behind a fresh, clean berry aromas with hints of white flowers. Nothing cloying or sweet, this wine is clean, fresh, and crisp. $13.00

2004 Chardonnay, Russian River - Intense nose of kiwi and white melon with a whisper of white peach. Crisp entry and some cream on the mid-palate that is opulent and engaging. Going away from the more butter-rich Clone 4, this is a wine made from the muscat chard of Dijon and Spring Mountain. $28.00

2004 Pinot Noir, Russian River - Heady perfumey aromas of cinnamon, clove, and cherry. The mouth fills with spicy, cinnamon-covered red hots that is teasing and playful. The spicy fruit flavors are well-defined and invigorating. $32.00

2002 Malbec, Alexander Valley - I am such a huge Malbec fan and this does not fail to impress. Chewy tobacco with layers of soy and miso in the nose. The flavors are redolent with dark fruit, tiered with a rich mineral core. $28.00

2002 Merlot, Sonoma County - With 6% Cabernet Sauvignon and 6% Cabernet Franc. Redolent nose of black cherry and licorice with a whisper of dried herbs in the back of the nostrils. Black fruit and black pepper enter the mouth, teasing with a touch of plum liqueur. Big, chewy entry is smooth in the center with a perfectly balanced finish. $24.00

2002 Syrah, Sonoma County - 4% Viognier provides a hint of sweetness in this rich, sweet boysenberry wine. Jammy entry with a core of licorice and spice, medium-bodied and easy to drink. $24.00

2002 Cabernet Sauvignon, Sonoma County - 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Malbec. Medium-bodied, terroir-driven aromas show herbs and cherries. Rich, sweet entry is smooth and toasty. Not overly complex or chewy, but great body and flavors. $24.00

2002 Zinfandel, Sonoma County - From 65 year old vines. Rich vanilla tones in a smooth, dark entry that displays sultry plum and spice notes. Jammy, spicy, toasty, and a hint of earth. $24.00

2002 Dry Creek Syrah, Vesenaz Vineyard - Only 150 cases made. Terroir-driven aromas with a heady liqueur of blackberry. Inky black red with an even, spicy core and supple, velvety finish. $32.00

2002 Sonoma County Zinfandel, Bobcat Vineyard - Leaving the grapes on the vines a little longer than usual, this is only the fourth vintage of this wine which has a tiny amount of residual sugar. Dark and spicy, the smooth and velvety mouthfeel is ever so slightly sweet, but not enough to coat the teeth. Smooth and intense, the flavors are defined and intense; quintessential zinfandel and after most of the tasting, a culmination in the example of the style that is Susie's wine. $32.00

2000 Sweet Cindy - This wine is an homage to Susie's dearly departed sister-in-law, Cindy. It is a blend of late-harvest Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc with grapes that are fully botrysized. Intense, dark gold orange color, there are hints of earthy, rustic honey with a core of pear. While the wine is sweet, there is a heightened acidity that provides perfect balance and clean flavor.  A bargain at $12.00

Selby Winery ~ 215 Center Street ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707-431-1288
$5.00 for four tastes, although many additional bottles are often open and offered.

Foppiano - 169

My love of history brought me to Foppiano Winery and Vineyards. Someone told that it was the oldest family-owned winery in California. Well I knew it wasn't true (that honor belonging to the Bundschu family, dating their grape-growing history to 1850), but was still intrigued with the lineage which dates back to 1896 when Genoa native Giovanni Foppiano purchased and already working winery named "Riverside Farm."

Louis M. Foppiano, Jr., who took over the wine-making reigns from his father, still produces a second label wine under the Riverside name (although I didn't taste any). Much of the existing historical buildings can still be seen, as can a Southern Pacific Caboose (apparently the last of its kind), which has been converted to office space.

The tasting room is well appointed with many historical photographs and a very pleasant, helpful staff. The walls are bedecked with ribbons and behind the pouring counter lies the family history in bottles. In visiting this area, what I found most enjoyable was the effusive quality of the Petite Sirah -- three different wineries within a cat's throw all presented exceptional quality juice that I had to buy!

2002 Russian River Pinot Noir - Warm berry and sweet candy shop aromas. Easy mouth entry that is smooth and balanced with a bit of minerality on the finish. Medium-bodied and quaffable. $23.00

2002 Alexander Valley Sangiovese - Earth and cranberry and touch of funk. I think it was corked. $17.50

2002 Dry Creek Zinfandel - Warm, rich, sweet spice of cinnamon and clove. Pomegranate flavors on the mouth entry in this medium-bodied offering. The entry seems at first a bit soft but expands to s

how warmth and integrity. $15.00

2003 Russian River Petite Sirah, Bacigalupi Vineyard - Medium red color with some cloudiness. Blueberry liqueur and smoke in the nose. Easy entrance of blueberry that is dry in the mid-palate and tangy on the finish. $17.50

2002 Russian River Petite Sirah, Estate - Rich, dark blueberry. Intense, dark and hefty extolling virtues of smoke and spice and well-integrated oak. Complex and rich, the finish is brooding and hefty. $23.00

Foppiano ~ 12707 Old Redwood Highway ~ Healdsburg ~ Ca ~ 92448 ~ 707-433-7272

J Vineyards & Winery - 166

Frequent readers will recall how impressed I was with Mayo and their sumptuous food pairing. Working hard at experimenting and learning about good food and wine pairings, I am becoming more and more impressed with those wineries that go the extra step to showcase their wines with a savory morsel or two. And I'm not talking just a glorified cheese plate. Cheese plates are good and all that, but can actually detract from a wine by virtue of the fact that cheese coats your tongue and can conflict with a wine's taste. And I'm a huge cheese proponent.

But arriving at J, which shares a large entrance way with Rodney Strong, I had no idea that food was what lay in store for me. I was simply impressed with the entrance; a bridge over a small creek leading to the front door. The building itself is partially overgrown with vines and while the landscaping seems wild and unkempt, actually alludes to a state of elegance and artistry that await within.

There are a number of levels of tastings available at J and all of them involve food pairings. Not having an appointment for a sit-down tasting, the main retail room and bar is the beginning of what is a truly exciting experience. Of course the artist in me could not help but excited by the massive wall which stands behind the bar. Produced by Gordon Heuther, the giant wall is a seemingly constructed slab of brushed copper. Irregular and jagged holes exist through which protrude sharp, icy slabs of clear glass. Trying to concentrate on my wine, I was drawn to the wall and realized later that it was Heuther's work at Artesa Winery that had first drawn me to his work.

While gazing at the wall, a nice young man behind the counter started the tasting service. This was where the pairings came into play and surprised and enticed. Starting with their signature sparkling wine, the 1999 J Vintage Brut ($30.00) was served with small, crispy cups filled with shrimp ceviche. The wine is a cuvée of Pinot Meunier, Pinot Noir, and Chardonnay grapes. The wine had hints of white stonefruit on the nose. White pear presents itself more in the mouth with a rich, creamy mouthfeel that sweetens when paired with the slightly spicy ceviche. A brilliant pairing.   

While a more substantial pairing is available in a sit-down setting in the adjacent, Bubble Room, I continued with our progress. The second food and wine combination was a miniature cherry tomato, its top third sliced off to accommodate a dollop of rich, creamy hummus made with McEvoy Ranch olive oil paired with a 2004 J. Viognier, Alexander Valley ($30.00). Yet another inspiration. I somewhat suspected that the Viognier would be too sweet for the acidity of the tomato.  The Viognier is slightly viscous with a light peachy color, providing sweet, crisp aromas of orange blossoms, peach, and white flowers. The mouth entry was initially exotic with a touch of sweetness. What surprised me was how the hummus killed the sweetness and expanded the wine's richer flavors. Alternately, the wine tamed the smokiness in the hummus.

The next step in our tasting involved walking upstairs to a small, dark alcove that overlooks the production area. The third in our tasting series was a 2003 J Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley ($28.00) paired with small ovals of creamy polenta topped with sautéed crimini mushrooms which were cooked in a Pinot Noir reduction. The polenta had been prepared with a bit of jack cheese and the earthiness of the mushrooms was the perfect complement to the Pinot. The wine itself was a classic offering showing dark cherry and a hint of floral. The fruit flavors seemed more concentrated with the initial mouth entry and the earthiness expanded with the mushroom flavors from the polenta.

The last of our four-part tasting was a soon-to-be-discontinued 2003 J Zinfandel, Russian River Valley ($35.00). It seems this was the third production of a Zinfandel and each time, the fruit had to be sourced from different growers and that a consistent supplier never materialized. The Zinfandel was served with small crostini of Fromage Fort, a very creamy, strong-tasting cheese that had been piped onto the toasts, topped with thin slivers of Coppa salami. The wine is delightfully spicy with white pepper and cinnamon with a medium bodied core of dark red fruit. The finish showed a hint of smokiness and all the rich flavors, well integrated and balanced, paired perfectly with the strong, spicy bite of the cheese; the saltiness of the salami counter-balancing the pepper in the wine.

Truly a grand adventure to be had for a mere $12.00. The Bubble Room tastings are slightly more expensive; $35.00 for the sparkling vertical or $25.00 for the Pinot Noir vertical. Must go back often, as the menu changes seasonally, to try the others.

J Vineyards & Winery ~ 11447 Old Redwood Highway ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707-431-3646

Rodney Strong - 165

Rodney Strong Vineyards' facilities shares a sweeping roundabout driveway with J Vineyards. I wasn't exactly sure if they shared corporate ownership or not, but the folks in both facilities assure me that they are separate companies and all they share is a grandiose driveway.  I'm sorry that my photographs of the interior were so dark and fuzzy. It is a very impressive complex with the tasting room centered around a walk-way of historical and wine-making information.

It is a facilities that sees a lot of guests and the layout is conducive to a high-traffic pattern. The walls that surround the tasting room not includes history of the Rodney Strong empire (extensive), but also information about the various appellations, and direct view of the expansive two-story high barrels. A worthy visit for one of the larger wineries in Sonoma County.

2004 Charlotte's Home Sauvignon Blanc, Sonoma County - Lighter and more crisp than most with clean white melon aromas. Tight entry of grass and herbs with a lemony finish that is slightly acidic. $14.00

2003 Russian River Pinot Noir, Jane's Vineyard, Russian River Valley - Medium-bodied berry aromas effusive with freshness and a tease orange rind. Deeper mouth entry than the aromas portend with a few hints of chocolate. $19.00

2002 Reserve Pinot Noir, Jane's Vineyard, Russian River Valley - Decidedly earthier and more substantial than its predecessor. Rich dark berries and integrated earth aromas with a soft, supple mouth entry. Heightened mineral tones in the mid-palate and luscious, dark fruit finish. $35.00

2000 Symmetry Red Meritage, Alexander Valley - 62% Cabernet Sauvignon, 27% Merot, 11% Cabernet Franc. Dark, black brambleberry with a layer of green bell pepper and dusty leafy twig aromas. Tight mouth feel, with some oak and plum, but needing more time. $55.00

Rodney Strong Vineyards ~ 11455 Old Redwood Highway ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 800-678-4763

Chateau St. Jean - 152

Château St. Jean ranks among the highest for quality Chardonnay. Just ask anyone who likes Chardonnay... Okay, I'm not a huge Chardonnay fan but I found many things to like at Château St. Jean. Perhaps it was the atmosphere or the congeniality. Perhaps it was because there is a sense of history or because I was weak and actually bought something from the gift shop. Whatever it was, I have a fine memory of my time at Château St. Jean.

Wine aside, the estate property is absolutely stunning. There are gardens that you have to walk through to get to the visitor's center which offer many exceptional vantage points for photography or for simply relaxing by one of the several ponds. The "Château" itself was built by the Goff family in the 1920s and has been lovingly restored and is where some of the offices exist as well as the Reserve Room tasting area.

Apparently if you are part of the Reserve Club, you can have access to a private terraced seating area for individual, table-side service. This picture was taken through a window of the Château, as though I was a Peeping Tom, peering at two lucky recipients of a private tasting. I'll be they also got to taste the wines I would have preferred to taste; Gewurztraminer, Riesling, Malbec, Viogner, and other Reserves...

The actual public tasting room is tremendously large and amply filled with a variety of products, much of the usual from clothing to wine-related gadgets. But I have to admit a confession. In my hundred-and-fifty-odd winery visits, this was the first time I actually bought something in a gift shop. In a corner, away from most of the expensive bounty, was a line of tin-and-enamelware kitchen gadgets. I purchased what looked like a pots de crème set, complete with rack (I say it looked like a pots de crème set, except that it wasn't porcelain). It was $10.50 for the set and while not politically correct for real pots de crème, it will suit me just fine. Oh yeah, and I enjoyed the wine too.

2002 Robert Young Vineyard Chardonnay - Classic lemon and buttery aromas. Oily mouthfeel upon entry showing dark papaya and mango. Rich, with a hint of lemon peel on the finish. $35.00

2003 Sonoma Valley Pinot Noir - Dusty, exotic aromas of incense - akin to sandalwood with a core of red fruit. Red fruit dominates the mouth entry and brightens with acidity on the mid-palate. Smoky finish. $19.00

2002 California Merlot - Black plum and brambleberry display in the initial whiff but subside to demonstrate eucalyptus on the end. Chewy, tight mouth entry that is full bodied and thick. Tad harsh on finish.  $15.00

Château St. Jean ~ 8555 Sonoma Highway (Highway 12) ~ Kenwood ~ 95452 ~ 707-833-4134

Ridge - 64

Ridge is one of those names in the wine business that immediately evoke a response - usually one of awe. I have been fortunately to taste some very old Ridge wines and my regard is long-standing based on those older offerings of Cabernet and Zinfandel. Ridge single-handedly convinced me that quality-made Zinfandels can age, and age well, as I have tasted 20-year old Ridge Zinfandels that continue to show depth and structure.

Ridge is also unusual for another reason - for while there are many wineries that utilize multiple vineyards, very few build winery tasting rooms in separate counties; the two counties from which their grapes are gleaned. My visit to Ridge occurred at their Santa Cruz location and if you can at all handle twisty, windy roads, I highly recommend the jaunt.

The tasting room is austere and elegant with natural wood that reflects the beauty of the surroundings. The staff are knowledgeable and extremely friendly. They know their product and are readily able to answer the most arcane of questions.

2003 Chardonnay, Santa Cruz - Utilizing both American and French oak, no malo was utilized. Mineral tones produce a crisp entry which blossoms into apricot flavors. $30.00

2002 Geyserville - 84% Zinfandel, 12% Carignane, and 4% Petite Syrah. At 14.6% alcohol, port-like cherry fruit pervades with a bright, engaging entry. Teases at elegance with balanced oak and fruit. Punctuated dark fruit finishes. $30.00

2001 Lytton Estate Syrah/Grenache -  50/50 blend. Young and rather green with medicinal qualities on the nose and a touch of tar. Fruitier on the nose than in the mouth with a dry mid-palate. $28.00

2002 Santa Cruz Mountains - 50% Cabernet, 48% Merlot, and 2% Petite Verdot. Lovely, complex bouquet of cocoa, cherry, and spice. Same spicy entry that heightens with red fruit in the mid-palate and cedar on the back-palate. A slightly mineral finish. $33.00

1998 Pagani Ranch, Northern Sonoma Valley, Sonoma County - 88% Zinfandel, 9% Alicante Bouschet, and 3% Petite Sirah. Hedonistic, showing up front fruit of blackberry, boysenberry, and dark raspberry. Some hints of brett. Amazingly deep and textured with a bright entry that darkens and expands, falling off a bit on the end. $33.00

2002 Buchignani Carignane - Opulent black raspberry and strawberry aromas layered with complex cinnamon and clove spices. Deceiving mineral entry explodes to light, enticing fruit. Great, great fun. $24.00

2000 Lytton Springs Zinfandel - A bit spritzy upon pouring. Mostly mineral tones with some raspberry that blossoms on the finish. $33.00

Ridge ~ Monte Bello ~ 17100 Monte Bello Road ~ Cupertino ~ CA ~ 95014 ~ 408-867-3233
Ridge ~ Lytton Springs ~ 650 Lytton Springs Road ~ Healdsburg ~ CA ~ 95448 ~ 707-433-7721

Hall Winery - 42

Hall Vineyards has been receiving a lot of press lately. Katheryn and Craig Hall only acquired the historical facilities in 2003 and, wanting to erect a new building, caused quite a controversy in town with the announcement that noted architect Frank Gehry was to be the designer. Seems the local gentry were concerned that a Gehry building would bring too much traffic to an already-congested area. I personally hope they prevail, as I have been a huge fan of Gehry's work for some time.

I hope that even if a new edifice is erected that the current visitor's center which greets new guests remains. Grey and looking ever so frazzled from wear and history, accents of red punctuate the building; an awning, the name, and a sculpture which sits out front contrast with the dull, worn wood of the building. It makes it all so elegant. Also scattered throughout the grounds are pieces from an astonishing art collection which I thought was worth the visit even before tasting their wines.

I have categorized this winery as both in the St. Helena appellation, where their buildings lie, as well as the Sonoma, Alexander Valley appellation, where a number of their vineyards which produce much of their wine exist. I think if I were to get very technical, the Halls have five different vineyard holdings including the Hall Estate vineyards in St. Helena, the Sacrashe Vineyards above Rutherford, the T Bar T Vineyards in Alexander Valley, the Napa River Ranch Vineyards just off the Silverado Trail still considered the Napa Valley Appellation, and the Hardester Ranch Vineyards in Pope Valley.

2003 Sauvignon Blanc, T Bar T Vineyard, Alexander Valley - As this wine sees a bit of oak, there is not the usual astringency of a hundred-percent stainless-produced SauvBlanc. This produced an immediate warm, creamy sensation on the nose which didn't anticipate the citrus, grass entry into the mouth. This bright initial taste fills out to a tropical mid-palate and is highlighted at the end with a hint of orange peel on the finish. $22.00

2002 Hall Merlot, Napa Valley - Very rich, heady, jammy bouquet which is punctuated with spice at the end. The jammy fruit enters the mouth and slowly reveals a spicy, slightly green finish with an underlying dark fruit underneath. $28.00

2002 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley - 6% Merlot in a wine that has seen 22 months of French oak. Initial aroma of green bell pepper and jalapeno anticipates the pepper entry which quickly gives way to dark, blackberry fruit. Rich entry with a dry mid-palate produces a decent finish. $35.00

2002 Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, T Bar T Vineyard, Alexander Valley - 20% Merlot. Surprising candied berry nose just barely hides a hint of mint underneath. Plum, cherry, and brambleberry couple with a little smoke and tantalizes with a candy-like finish. Mild and balanced on initial taste produces a lovely spiked spicy finish. $38.00

2002 Katheryn Hall Cabernet Sauvignon, Sacrashe Vineyards, Rutherford - 100% Cabernet Sauvignon. Intensely fruit-forward, spicy cassis, blackberry do not disappoint a full, blossomy mouthfeel which expands voluptuously. Eucalyptus finish demonstrates great acidity. $65.00

Hall ~ 401 St. Helena Highway South ~ St. Helena ~ CA ~ 94574 ~ 866-667-HALL (4255)

Silver Oak - 5

Silver Oak has had a well-established reputation for phenomenal Cabernet. Several years ago, I was fortunate to taste the 1974 Silver Oak Mountain Coast (I'll go ahead and add those tasting notes at the bottom, just because I can). With that reputation, I was greatly looking forward to my visit to Silver Oak, but which one to go to? As you can see, I have categorized this listing under both Napa, Oakville (where one tasting room and location lies) and Sonoma, Alexander Valley, where a separate set of buildings exist. It was to the Oakville establishment that I arrived for my sojourn. The distinction is important as they produce Cabernets from both appellations.

Known for their logo Water Tower, a building which one will see scattered all over the valley, I was not too surprised to see the actual model sitting close by the working structures of the winery. The entrance of the tasting room is impressive and elegant. I especially like the stained glass window which lies above the large doorways. I didn't get a full tour of the production facilities and can only attest to that which I witnessed from the outside.

Also, immediately to the left of the building is a great bronze sculpture of a man pushing a wheelbarrow. Contained within the wheelbarrow is a planting of fresh flowers and I imagine the foliage changes with the seasons. This is a relatively low-production winery, like Quintessa, where Cabernet is king and there is not much reason to bother with multiple varietals. So on to my tasting:

From 1974 Silver Oak Mountain Coast - Light ruby with bridge-red edges. Nose of hazelnuts, cherries, chocolate, and dill. Good body, long finish with return of red fruit character. A truly splendid wine.

And from today; 2000 Silver Oak Napa Cabernet - Surprisingly, from a blend of twelve different vineyards, 79% Cabernet, 11% Merlot, 8% Cabernet Franc, and 2% Petit Verdot. While I got a little cassis and vanilla on the nose, the wine paled a bit in my mouth in an almost Pinot-like concentration. Slightly thin.

2000 Silver Oak Alexander Valley - I perceived quite a bit of brett on the nose. It was very oaky and a second whiff produced considerable minerals in the aroma. Again, much more pale in the mouth than I had expected this wine to be. I think it might actually ripen in the bottle and I wouldn't mind trying one in eight or ten years.

There was also a Meyer NV Port. It was a tad cloudy and a bit overly sweet and syrupy for my tastes.

Silver Oak ~ 915 Oakville Crossroad ~ Oakville, CA 94562 ~ 800-273-8809